Detune ski edges12/21/2023 One thing that might help is moving the focus from weighting the uphill ski more to focusing on weighting the downhill ski less. This might seem like excess pressure but you are talking about steep terrain so what feels like excess pressure might be what is required. Round out your turns and slow down by making tighter turns and finishing the turn across the fall line. Don't skid or brake so hard at the end of the turn. There are two things (I can think of) you can do to help with this. All you need is hard snow and more edge angle then the ski can handle with the amount of pressure you have on it. You can do this with the downhill ski also. In this situation the ski is going to grab and then let go over and over and could easily bang in to the other ski. You could get what you describe to happen if you over edge the uphill ski relative to the pressure you have on it especially if you were skidding sideways. ThanksIt would be very hard to answer this question with out seeing you ski in this terrain on this ski. Weighting the back ski excessively (properly?) does help it track somewhat better, but I don't remember having this issue with other skis. But focusing on opening my hip / knee out doesn't seem to help it so much. I am only an intermediate tele skier, so have mediocre form. I'ts not just a scraping from not tracking well, it's a more repetitive bam bam bam. It could be one or the other or a combination of both.Ĭould this help the symptom I'm having on tele gear in steep hardpack (tried asking on another forum but no responses yet)? On steeps, the uphill ski grabs and then bangs into the lower ski repeatedly. And while they may have just been tuned, you might just want to check the base for edge-hi railing with a true bar. You don't want to go too far, but out of the shrink wrap, some skis just need to be more buttery. A railed ski can really be unforgiving all along its length and not want to give up the edge without greater force applied by the skier - in essence requiring more speed to do most maneuvers and leaving little range for any finesse at all. The other is when the base is railed, or concave from edge to edge. One is that camber places more pressure on the ends of the running surface than a flatter or softer ski does. There are two reasons skis can be grabby in this way of not wanting to let go of the turn and change edges smoothly. Just a couple of passes with a diamond stone is all I mean. And if you are skiing a lot of soft snow, it really won't hurt things to take a little of the sharpness off the whole edge. I noticed a big difference between the right and left ski due to differences in detuning. Have not ridden them since, but I think by now they will be dialed. So I skied them opening day and detuned them a little more after that. They had no idea what they really were and weren't interested in them. I did call Head and told them what I had. I mounted them with Switchback X2s over the objections of several, who thought they belonged in a museum. They were undrilled, 210 cm black beauties. Did it recently with a pair of original Head DPs from the 60s that Snowbeard found at a yard sale and gifted to me. Those shaped, or "parabolic" skis as some people call them, flat out suck for anything except carving on groomers.īack in the day when skis were 210 and longer I was notorious for detuning the tips and tails with a file and going just a tiny bit past the contact point. But all of those were really wasp-waisted carving skis that only did one thing well and you lost that if you detuned them much at all. I thought for a while that some skis didn't benefit from it. I also usually detune tips and tails with a file until they are round. So the stones are what I use mostly to keep them that way. Much more important to have smooth edges than sharp ones for me. I just don't tear my guts out if I can't cut a sheet of paper with them. I hit a lot of rocks anyway so nothing is bound to stay razor sharp for very long. I want to ski soft snow and the fact that they are still reasonably sharp lets them perform well enough on the little bit of hard snow that I encounter and they are still plenty sharp for the occasional no-fall zone. I don't even care how sharp my edges are in the contact area.
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